PFAS in Textiles Endangers Health and Complicates Recycling – Is There a More Sustainable Alternative?

The textile industry produces materials used in everyday life, and the modern world demands mass production of these materials. Although textiles offer many advantages, it is less known that many products contain harmful chemicals that can have serious negative consequences for human health and the environment. This industry is one of the largest sources of pollution from per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in Europe. According to data from the European Environment Agency (EEA), textiles account for about 35 percent of the global demand for PFAS.

These substances represent a broad group of synthetic chemicals known for their durability – they are resistant to water, grease, and heat. It is estimated that there are more than 10,000 different PFAS compounds. However, their very durability makes them extremely harmful to the environment. PFAS are known as “forever pollutants” because they do not break down naturally and can persist for decades in nature, as well as in the human body.

Although their harmfulness is well known, most textiles in Europe are imported from Asian countries where chemical regulations are less stringent, meaning there is very little information about the PFAS content in imported textiles.

PFAS spread through water, air, and soil, and their excessive concentration can cause various health issues, from fertility problems to an increased risk of cancer. Just as they can enter the human body, they more easily enter animal organisms and can accumulate in plants, spreading further through the food chain. Prolonged exposure can cause disruptions to entire ecosystems.

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Previously, it was believed that there were no good alternatives to PFAS, but research has shown that there are indeed safer alternatives for the environment, such as biodegradable or less harmful synthetic materials. For example, waterproof materials made from natural fibers enriched with wax or resin.

Foto-ilustracija: Unsplash (Angela Bailey)

The issue with textiles containing PFAS also lies in the difficulty of recycling. At the end of a textile’s life cycle, there is usually no information on whether it contains PFAS, and if it does, in what quantity. Testing textiles for these chemical substances is a costly and demanding process. Textiles containing these substances are difficult to recycle due to their resistance to decomposition, and if subjected to recycling, the substances spread through recycling streams. Moreover, the process of removing PFAS from the remaining recyclable textiles is financially unfeasible. Another alternative could be the use of biopolymers, which are becoming increasingly popular worldwide and are significantly easier to recycle and degrade.

Technically feasible alternatives exist for various categories of textiles such as home textiles, sportswear, and footwear. However, for certain categories, such as protective gear for firefighters or medical equipment that shields against exposure to various fluids, there is still no adequate substitute for PFAS.

The European Union should continue introducing new technologies and stricter regulations, such as digital product passports, as well as improving sorting methods. All of this will help track PFAS throughout the entire product life cycle.

Katarina Vuinac

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